Ballen Havn, Samsø

Middelfart, Denmark was the perfect haven for us as a storm dumped rain and blew stiff winds through this genteel northern European land. We spent a soggy morning doing laundry and talking with neighbors and the friendly harbor master at Middelfart Marina, then biked around, spying several docking spots and anchorages for future visits.

As we sail north, we notice more signs of the signature Scandinavian social net. Example: a free DIY bike repair station — with a free tire pump to use! All on the honor system.

When fair winds returned, we sailed northeast into the Kattegat to the island of Samsø. A broad reach most of the way pushed us at a civilized 5 to 6 knots with a meter swell. And then, the cutest marina we’ve ever visited — Ballen Havn, Samsø.

We packed next to a jovial Brit and Canadian the first night, then sauntered over to our own berth after waving goodbye to the English speakers early the next morning.

Ballen has smoked fish stands and veggies grown on the island. We hopped on our rolling ponies for a tour of this picture-book charming island. It’the kind of place that tempts you to get lost, and rewards you with a feast for the eyes, nose and taste buds.

Sipping local brews (the oddly-named Brexit New England IPA at Den Gamle Butik’s Mad & Vinbar is not to be missed) and munching wild berries on our route, we ended the day with a refreshing dunk in the warm-ish (“ish” being the operative word) Baltic Sea at the white sand beach steps away.

A morning chat with the kind and gentlemanly harbormaster “Claus” about our 10-hour sail tomorrow to the tiny island of Anholt makes it clear that a return visit to Samsø is a matter of “when,” not “if.” Thank you Ballen Havn, thank you Claus, thank you Denmark!