More than 10,000 years ago, all of Norway was covered by a giant glacier whose edges marched out to sea, freezing the ocean itself. When the ice retreated, it shoved boulders, gravel and sand together into a beautiful island now called Jomfruland, the largest mound of rock and earth in a vast, mostly underwater park. This “geo park” sits far out in the Kragerø archipelago, pushing into the powerful Skagerrak sea of Viking lore. “You have to see Jomfruland,” several Norwegian

Just when you think everything is perfect on a sailboat, a new “adventure” comes out of nowhere like an unexpected rogue wave. This story begins in Brevikstranda, a secluded bay so protected its surface sometimes flattens to dark glass. Tucked away inside an underwater mountain range of granite, Brevikstranda’s heritage includes tales of trolls and magic. Peering at the landscape and seeing no trolls, I did notice, however, that the anchor release switch on our windlass was s